Apparently the Riot has been retraced and a new schematic has emerged with a few changes that might explain why the first one didn’t quite hit the mark. Hopefully this new schematic will be spot on.
Note that there are a number of small changes compared to the first one, and this vero is not interchangeable (cuts, jumpers and components have been moved).
Update (31.03.2013): Now verified as working, thanks to agung.
On a different note, most any general purpose silicon diodes would probably work fine as substitutes for the 51Y. Experiment with a few different ones or just pick the ones you have at hand.
Is this thread still alive?
I have no idea, but if there’s a brand new effect out now then probably not.
Do you think it could be the new SUHR RIOT RELOADED? 🙂
As long as you get the right on-on-on switch you should be able to wire it up just as the layout says, no extra wire links. If you’ve got the reverse on-on-on switch you will have to do a little bit of thinking and mirror everything.
And I have no idea about the 4558 vs 4580, sorry.
Hello again Harald! 🙂
I’ve built this one, but I have a question: I just wired every pole oh the on-z-on switch as you wrote on the layout, but do I have to link poles 2-4 of the switch like I did with the rat w/mods? Or, as long as there is a wire to every pole, no cross-links are needed? Thanks! 😀
Btw, is the 4558 less high-gain than the 4580?
I have no idea. I haven’t tried either 🙂
Hello there ! I have a question 😀 whats the difference between the two Suhr riot ?
You can use most current dual opamps as they’re typically pin-for-pin compatible. What -sounds- good comes more down to taste. I have a bunch of TL072 and LF353 that I tend to use in a pinch, and they usually work fine.
Hi all.
What is a good sub for a 4580 chip….4558…072??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
dale
Hey, i alread find a DPDT on-on-on here, the vendor explained as well how it works with the rotary switch without modifying. I guess I’ll try it. Thanks a million for the answer.
Best regards 🙂
Hi Marcel,
It’s certainly doable, but it’s going to be a bit tricky both to explain and do. It will also require you to modify the vero layout somewhat. To be honest your best option is probably to find the on-on-on switch which can be had several places, e.g. http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=900 (this switch looks like it’s the opposite of what the layout calls for, but this is easily remedied by swapping the two poles compared to what the layout calls for).
Exactly it is a 4P3T Rotary Switch. I’m a bit confused.. It’s hard to find on-on-on DPDT switches.
Regards
Hey there, could you tell me if it’s possible to use a 3 position 4 pole rotary switch instead of an dpdt? and if yes, how to solder the pins?
best regards from germany
marcek
Yes, you can definitely do it with two separate single pole switches. That’ll give you even more options than the DPDT on-on-on (4 compared to 3 settings).
Hey i think i figured out something, with 2 spdt i can hook them up together and make something like this : position 1 with position 1, position 2 with position 1 and position 2 w position 2 i dont know if it works
I would suggest you source it from smallbear, but I suppose you can get by with a regular DPDT on-on, just with less options. You’d have to possibly also do some small modifications to the switching.
Hey Harald
I got a small question, here at my country (Venezuela) is kinda hard to find those dpdt (on/on/on) switches, how can i replace it? i realy want to make that pedal!
Btwn thanks for the layout !
Yes, you are correct. The best approach s probably to run a single wire from “tone 3” on the vero board to the tone pot, and then daisy chain another wire from there to the switch.
Hello Harald
In this Riot (take 2) – Pot Tone 3 goes to the Clip Switch 2.
and the Tone 3 of the vero circuit?
Happy Easter! I think most any general purpose silicon diode will be fine. A good start would be 1N4148 or 1N914.
Happy Easter 🙂
Btw, 51Y? Any easy-to-find substitute for them? 😉