You requested it and here is the vero layout for the Way Huge Aqua Puss. This one was challenging, and odds are I’ve missed something, but you never know. I’ll build this and verify/correct it as soon as I source all the parts.

I based the layout on both the schematic done by freestompboxes.org as a group and the schematic drawn by Madbean (if you don’t want to go through all the hassle of building an unverified vero you can purchase PCB’s from his site madbeanpedals.com). I went with the MN3205/V3205 variant for price/availability reasons, and plan to pick up a set of the reasonably priced CoolAudio ICs myself (V571, V3205, V3102, smallbear carries threse). I’m a little uncertain about the 8V regulator actually giving out 8V from a source of only 9V, and I might end up replacing this with a resistor instead (as described by Madbean in his “AquaBoy” document).

If you try this vero before I get around to doing it myself, let me know how it works 🙂

Update (21.02.2011): Mat has been kind enough to verify this layout as working!

Update (18.07.2012): Reportedly using the 78L08 doesn’t work very well so go with the resistor instead.

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56 thoughts on “Request: Way Huge Aqua Puss”

  1. Hi! I have built this now – there is signal passing, but no delay. The pots have no effect at all (only a tiny little bit of noise when turning the Mix knob) and the trimpots have no effect at all either. On IC3 and IC4 I measure not more than 300mV at most on any pin.
    The first time I fired it up I had these two ICs in the wrong direction. But they didn’t get hot at all, so I really don’t think I have burnt them. When using an audio probe I have no signal at all at these two ICs. What could the problem be? Can you tell me where and what to check? Thanks in advance!

  2. Hey! Is the vero layout gonna be very noisy compared to the Madbean PCB for instance or should there be no problems with crosstalk and noise? I‘d like to give it a try tomorrow.

  3. Hi Freek,
    Unfortunately I don’t know where the problem might be because it can be any number of different things. I suggest you check out the debugging section for some help getting started.

  4. Now I have noise, but a really loud oscillating noise. Almost no guitar sound. What could it be? Maybe a bad IC?

  5. Harald,

    Thanks a lot for the layout. I built it. It works, but the output volume is extremely low, compared to the bypass signal. What could be the problem?

  6. You could try a 50k audio/log pot instead. That should give you less sensitivity at the beginning and hopefully a more controllable increase.

  7. Harald,

    Thanks for the great site! I build this one using the V3205 BBD, V3102 Clock Driver and V571 compander. After a bit of debugging I have a useable Delay… However, The feedback Pot is very sensitive. It will oscillate at about a 1/4 turn and it goes from single repeat to 10 repeats in short order. I am using a Linear 50k right now. Can it be changed to a different value? Is there another component that can be substituted that would slow the response?

    Thanks in advance,

  9. Hi Harald.
    Very nice delay. Fit nicely into a 125b. I think some might expect crystal clean delays like a digital delay but this sounds (it is isn’t it?) like a good analog delay that kind of loses clarity as the delay fades. Cool pedal. Could you look at posting some Fuchs pedals please?
    dale.

  13. Hi all.
    Should the Puss be built with a 78L08 or a ~~1.5k resistor?
    I’m starting my DO-OVER on it!!
    Too many weird noises to trouble shoot./…UHG!!! I love this stuff!!
    dale

  14. Thanks Harald.
    I built this and am positive (famous last words) there are no errors . I get a light when switched on but no sound either way. Going to install a 1.5k res into voltreg pins and see..take care,
    dale

  15. It goes from pin #1 to pin #3 where the transistor (really an IC) would have been. And I think this is a better option than the 78L08.

  16. Hi all.
    Can anyone help with swapping the 8v reg with a resistor. How?
    Three legs vs two??
    dale

  17. Dale, your best bet is a google search for MPSA18 substitutes. At a glance there seemed to be several possible candidates.

  19. This sounds ace! I haven’t tried it with the two boards yet (or any of the add-ons) but I can’t wait to. Thanks Harald, excellent work dude. Incidentally, just out fo curisoity, I tried mine with the 78L08 & it worked, but it got really hot, I could literally smell the damn thing cooking. Tried with a 1K resistor & it seems to sound a lot better & also doesn’t fry itself.

    With regards to the trimpot adjustment, is there any voltage sweet spot you know of that I can measure for please Harald (or anyone)? I seem to just be tweaking willy nilly, but would like to know what range I should be looking for.

    Many thanks again matey, quality stuff!

    Matt

  21. Hi Matt, don’t use a voltage doubler on this one. The delay IC only takes +8v and I’m pretty sure it would die on you. You’ll need a power supply that can output twice the amount of current compared to a single one, but that’s it.

  22. Hi Harald, I quite fancy having two of these in one enclosure (for different delay times etc on the fly). If I were to run two at once, would it be better to use a volatge doubler, or would that kill some of the components? Many thanks,

    Matt

  23. Problem is the MN3005 and the MN3205/V3205 have pinout differences when it comes to power and ground. I chose to go with the MN3205/V3205 since it’s much, much cheaper and a lot easier to find.

  24. Hi harald,
    I want to build this delay, but I just have mn3005, can you help me to change some of the components should I do?
    Thanks

  25. …or even better, a BL3208 daughterboard! That would really cut the price, and you’ve got the same chip half on half the space.

  26. Continuing agung’s MN3005-related question: Would it be possible to use two MN3008 on the double-delay daughterboard and wire it differently to the main board? To me it seems like the most cost efficient option, BBDs are expensive…

  27. No you can’t I’m afraid. The pinouts don’t match between the two ICs and I chose the v3205 since the MN3005 is almost impossible to get hold of and if you do it cost a fortune (watch out for all the counterfeits out there).

  28. hi harald,
    SORRY ,can i use mn3005 and mn 3101 instead of v3205 and v3102?

    thanks

  29. hi harald,
    can i use mn3005 and mn 3101 instead of v3205 and v3205?

    thanks

  30. Happy you figured it out, and sorry I wasn’t around to give you an answer sooner. I’ll make a note of it not to use an 8v regulator.

  31. I answer to myself.
    For those who would like to build the Aqua Puss with a 78L08 : IT DOES NOT WORK !
    Here was the source of my problem. I put a 5k resistor instead of the 78L08 (to get a little less than 8V in pin 5 of the V3205) and it does echo !

    Great job, Harald. The layout is good, the sound is great. I built it for a friend of mine and I think I’ll have to build a second one for myself… :s

    Cheers from southern France !

  33. Hi Herald, hi everyone !
    I need help because I have mine quite finished… but my V3205 only has a treble whistle on its outputs…
    Where could it come from ? I made my circuit with a 78L08, should it be the origin of the problem ?

    Many thanks.
    Johann

  34. 47k should be just fine me thinks. But the 150R is actually a 150ohm, not 150k. The software automatically appends an ‘R’ whether I want to or not.

  35. I see where R26 value is listed as “150R”. I’m assuming this is supposed to be “150K” but just wanted to double check.

    Also, there are several 47.5K resistors listed. I have a lot of 47K’s in my stash. Would they be close enough or do I need to quit being a lazy hoser and get the correct component?

    Thanks for posting this. I’m looking forward to getting it finished!

  38. V.E.R.I.F.I.E.D

    Thanks again Harald. I went to madbean’s site and realised how to calibrate the trim pots. All working good. I am gonna box it now.

    Ben

  39. Hi Harald,

    Thanks for taking the time to answer back. I have briefly checked my layout last night:
    1: the VR2 is stuck on 4K ohms instead of 22K Ohms
    2: Pin 5 gives me 7.5V instead of 8V.

    I will have more time to check the all thing tonight.

    Thanks again

    Ben

  40. Hi, Ben. Thanks for the feedback. I don’t think either of these is the problem.
    The cancel trim pot (VR1) is used as a variable resistance; we only care about the resistance between the wiper and one of the lugs on either side, doesn’t matter which one. The left-over lug can be connected, but it doesn’t have to be.
    R23 is present in the guise of R18 (in hindsight I should have used the same component numbering to make things a bit easier). It connects with R19 (the 100k resistor on the other trim leg) via a jumper to the right of VR1 and then to ground.
    Keep in mind when you look at the “aquaboy” schematic that it’s laid out with the MN3005 pinout in mind, but my layout is based on the much-easier-to-source V3205. Pins 1 and 5 is swapped.

    Suggestion: Incidentally, I’m not 100% sure the 8v regulator (Q5) will work correctly. The goal is to provide +8v on pin 5 and if you socket Q5 you could try replacing it with a resistor (somewhere around 1k) between pin 1 and 3. Use a DMM and measure pin 5 on the V3205, then try a few different resistor values until you find one giving you +8v.

    There have been reports of readers here successfully building this, so I would like to think the layout is correct. I’ll have to get my stuff together and build this myself…

  41. HI Harald,

    I have finished the vero that you published above. It doesnt work so far. no delay at all. I have triple checked all the cuts, jumpers, resistors values, capacitors polarity… I have compared your vero with the aquaboy schematic and spotted a couple of missing connections :
    VR3 : lug 2 and 3 should be connected
    R23 (on schematic) is missing, a 100K resistor should be connected from pin 1 to 4 ending on the lug 1 of VR1.

    The only change I have done is to replace the LF353 with a TL072, but I doubt that is the reason why the pedal doesnt produce any delay.

    Let me know and thanks again for you great website.

    Ben

  42. You’re absolutely correct. Thanks for noticing, and the layout has been updated.

  45. Having built both from Harald’s layouts, the Aqua Puss is a much nicer sounding unit once properly biased via trimmers. The Rebote is good to go once built, but lacks the warmer (for lack of a better word) repeats of the Aqua Puss. Oscillation will always sound better with an analog delay, but the Rebote does an acceptable job.

    If you want an easy build that will work as it should immediately, build the Rebote.

    If you want a nicer sounding delay, with more naturally decaying echoes, and don’t mind a more challenging build with adjustment of trimmers for a few minutes, build the Aqua Puss.

    Hope that helps.

  46. I understand!
    But the Rebote, even if it’s digital, it does everything an analog delay is expected to do, right? Like natural decay, or oscillation and loops, right? 🙂

    The Rebote seems easier to build… dunno which one I’ll build!!!

  47. I haven’t designed either so I’m not really qualified to do any comparison, but for one the Aqua Puss is analog and the Rebote is digital, a pretty significant difference.

  48. Hi Sabro!

    A little question: which are the real differences between this delay and the rebote 2.5 delay? 🙂

  50. Update: I ended up adding a 4.7k resister in series with the 470k I had subbed for the 475k in the layout. Not sure if it effected much, but I just wanted to stay as close to the schematic as possible. Also, I replaced the 1.5k (in place of the regulator) for 1k, but technically I think a 1.2k would be better, but i liked how the 1k sounded, brought the overall volume of the repeats up a bit. I left my DMM at work, so I’m not exactly sure the voltage, but it should be around 8v.

    If you plan on building it, be sure to build the double delay if you have an extra BBD around. Gives the repeats a nicer sound (not quite as lo-fi).

  51. Very happy to hear this, Mat! Thanks for verifying. I’ll build one myself as soon as I get the time 🙂

  52. I’m impressed….

    Verified out of the gate! Not a single issue, everything is spot on. Quite impressive considering the schematic, great job (and great layout) Harald!

    The only things I’ve changed from your layout is that I replaced the regulator with a 1.5k resistor, and subbed 470k and 47k for the 475k and 47.5k resistors.

    I plan on working on the double delay add on, but that’ll have to wait until tomorrow as it’s quite late where I am 😉

    Here’s a photo of my build: http://i55.tinypic.com/1493tjn.jpg

    Many, many thanks Harald!

  55. Yes, although I’m uncertain as to what value. Use a DMM and try different values until you end up with +8V.

  56. !!! I’m excited about this one 🙂 If I find some time tomorrow I might start work on it.

    Question: If I want to use a resistor instead of the regulator, I would just put it in place of the IN and OUT pinouts of the regulator? (J9 to L9 on your layout)

    Many thanks 😀

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