Contact

9 thoughts on “Contact”

1. Hi Harold,

   I really like the idea of your 12dc interpretation of the Baja Tube drive. I am a newt effects building. I have your wiring diagram, but there are a couple problems/questions I have. I do not see a footswitch in the diagram, how is it wired? Also there is no connection listed for pin 9 on the tube socket. Also does the ground connection go to pin 4 or pin 5 of tube socket? Finally is there a neg (black) connection to the dc power jack?

   Thanks for having these great websites, and for posting these amazing designs.

   John

2. Hi Jarrod,
   Thanks for your kind words 🙂
   I figured out most of it by reading various forum posts and tutorials, but I did read one book “AVR Programming: Learning to Write Software for Hardware”, which I found quite good, and that helped me fill in the blanks.

3. Mr. Sabro,

   Thank you for all of that, I have a much better understanding now. I really look forward to V3, and will look into some other projects in the mean time.

   I completed an EE degree a year ago, but don’t feel equipped to truly grasp and implement the basics of programming and utilizing Atmel’s products. Are there any books or websites that you have found helpful or eye-opening in your pursuit of building pedals and programming chips?

   Thanks again for all your efforts. I appreciate your willingness to share what you to know help us less knowledgable tinkerers out here.

   Best Regards,
   Jarrod

4. Hi Jarrod,
   You’re right about the code not being programmable with a regular ISP. The reason is I ran out of pins and needed to use the reset pin as a regular I/O pin. This is perfectly fine, but makes it impossible to use ISP, since ISP requires a reset pin during programming.
   The way to do it is by using HVSP (High Voltage Serial Programming), but this isn’t something most programmers are set up to do. I use an Atmel STK500 development board which -can- do this.
   But despair not. By popular demand I’m currently working on porting the new v3 code back onto the attiny85 (albeit with a reduced feature set), and making it compilable in both an HVSP- and an ISP version (the ISP version then having one less feature).
   Watch this space for more. I’ve got it halfway working as we speak, trying to work out the remaining porting bugs.

5. Hi Mr. Sabro,
   First off, thank you for the efforts you put into your site and for sharing what you know with all of us.

   Second, I have used the Arduino UNO as an ISP on previous projects with the AtTiny85.
   I’m trying to build the tap tempo LFO circuit and read on here that it isn’t possible to program the chip with an ISP and your code. Could you elaborate or offer any suggestions/resources on how I should move forward with regard to programming those chips? I’m a bit lost and new to programming MCUs. Any advice would help greatly.

   Best Regards,
   Jarrod

6. Britton,
   To be honest I can’t remember how this thing was wired together, but I believe the on/off pole on the 3PDT replaces the typical LED switching on a true-bypass setup.

7. Good day Harald!

   I am about to build the Diamond Compressor found on your website… i was wondering what the on/off switch in the layout does and how do i wire the 1 pole on true bypass switch?

   thank you! 🙂

8. Hi Erik,
   First off, the vibrato switch is easily left out, just make a permanent connection between the two points on the board using a jumper.
   As for the switch/pot question, if you’re only using it for bass you can leave out the bass switch and C23. The “Blend” pot is the pot you’re looking for, it was just added for guitar as well.

9. Hi!

   Really cool site I say!

   I’d like to build a Boss ce-2 clone, but instead
   of a bass switch, I’d like a pot. How do I make this
   happen? I’d also like to bypass the vibrato switch.

   Also – do you have any other delay/echo layouts? I’m
   thinking an old MXR delay?

   Best of wishes
   – Erik