I’ve had more than a few requests for this effect lately so it shouldn’t take long to either verify this or point out there’s something wrong.
Update (23.03.2012): That was fast! Mark L already verified this one for us. Thanks Mark.
I’ve had more than a few requests for this effect lately so it shouldn’t take long to either verify this or point out there’s something wrong.
Update (23.03.2012): That was fast! Mark L already verified this one for us. Thanks Mark.
Gilmar,
It could be any number of things. I suggest you check out the “debugging” page to start off. You will hopefully get a few tips that can help you solve the problem.
(From my experience when these things happen, 95% of the time I did a small mistake or two, and it’s often an obvious mistake that I’ve overlooked).
Hello Harald, I used for capacitors in nanofarad metallized polyester ones, but I have no sound when activated the switch, I double checked everything but do not know what the problem is …
could you help me?
I used 2N5457 instead J201 and found the produkt more usable but with less power.
It’d be R9 and R14. Notice the cut under C8, that’s your 35th one.
By the way, I am counting only 34 cuts including the one below C8, not 35. Could this be correct? Minor detail off course.
Hi, thanks for all the work with the layouts! I have a small question. Which two of the four 22 k resistors in the mercury drive should be replaced for trimpots if I want to bias the jfets? I have read on freestompboxes that this is a good thing to do but I don’t have the knowledge to locate the drain resistors myself. Thanks in advance!
they’re stickers. i use a brother P-touch for them.
Looking great! How do you do the white decals by the way?
I just finished mine tonight. I found it to be a tiny bit too dark on the top end so I replaced the 3.3n cap on the output with a 1.5n. I also use my pedals for bass so I raised the value of the coupling caps and then, since this pedal is so smooooooth, added a clean blend so I could retain all of the punch of the clean signal.
pic:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Merc/Merc-01.jpg
Hi James! A great starting place would be R.G.Keen’s debugging pages over at http://www.geofex.com (upper left-hand corner). Both forums have lots of discussions on debugging as well, but you might have to dig a little.
Hi Guys
I’m new building my own pedals i made the Maxon OD808 and was much surprised and pleased to hear it working first try !!!!
i am now attempting the Brunetti Mercury i have the board finished but the volume is very low (almost none existent), i have gone over the placing of the components, jumpers and cuts and all look OK ??
I have got no idea how to go about troubleshooting faults, if anyone can offer any advice it would be much appreciated.
Just finished with 1N4148… great, really modern distortion! 🙂
Thanks! So I’ll use the BAT41 😉
These diodes is part of the voltage doubling circuitry and thus shouldn’t play a major role in the sound that you get. BAT41 should be just fine and you can probably also use regular ones like 1N914/1N4148 with the only result being a very slight lowering of the working voltage (because of voltage drop across the diodes).
What can I use instead of BAT85s? 🙂 I’d like to obtain the most faithful sound 😉 (I have three spare bat41, are they useful?)
Built this last week. Really nice overdrive, great sound. Thanks Harald.
Excellent. Thanks for verifying 🙂
This layout is good to go. I used 1N4148’s instead of the schotkeys. Sounds great! Really heavy.