Paulo,
I’m not an authority on these things by any stretch, but those kind of problems are from my experience related to either poor or wrong grounding. Does the problem go away if you toggle the ground lift switch? Could be something there perhaps.
Finished, Thanks for help!!! This is a great circuit, does what is supposed to do…
Still my B input is bleeding hum when i thouch the enclosure. This is normal?
Thank you for this site, it’s amazing 😉
Wouldn’t it be nice if I had just drawn it out? The easiest option would be to download the BYOC documentation which contains the schematic.
Input A first: This is a straight forward mono input jack. Connect the tip to the circuit board as indicated, and the sleeve connects to ground.
Input B: For input B you want a stereo jack with “normally connected/closed” (N.C.) switch lugs, like the Switchcraft 14B or the black plastic Neutrik jacks. Assuming a black Neutrik jack, the connectors furthest away from the opening is the “tip”, then comes the “ring”, and finally the “sleeve” connector is closest to the opening. Now, notice how, when you plug in a cable, one set of lugs are completely disconnected? Those are the N.C. switch lugs. You want to wire the “tip” regular lug to the “ring” switch lug.
What a confusing explanation. Sorry…
Hi all, i’m close to finish this one, but have some questions:
The lower right note says “B input tip -» B input ring SW” . If i face the jack input hole, this would be further left pin to middle right?
Where should the “A” Input ring/sleeve be connected? ground?
And thank you for verifying, Coi2001!
Verified
Thank you Harald for another great layout
If that works, then great! Certainly a lot easier than adding an active buffer stage. I didn’t know you could do that. Thanks for letting us know, Yehudi 🙂
Hey harald, been reading about this and it seems that there’s a way to make it using the output of the transformer.
Someone over the diystompboxes forum said:
“If you need a Phaze switch in your splitter and you want to keep it passive (No Batteries) then a Audio transformer is needed…A Transformer has an input side (Primary) and an output side (Secondary) by reverseing the the Signal wire and ground wires on the Secondary side you reverse the Phaze of the signal…”
Much easier right?
Cheers
You could use the opamp facing the transformers on either IC for this, but it’s not a trivial conversion. You basically have to set it up so that you can switch between the opamp stage being inverting as it is now, and non-inverting. Look at the ROG splitter blend schematic as an example. Since it will require extra components etc. you probably won’t be able to fit it on the current layout, but have to draw a new one. Sorry to be the bringer of bad news.
Do you know how could this be modded to have a phase invert switch on one of the channels? cheers
Ah sorry, I missed a note on the layout..
They’re not needed, but doesn’t hurt either. I’ve left them there for consistency’s sake, to indicate where you’d want to drill a hole for the transformer retainer clips (in the middle of those two cuts). Feel free to leave them out.
Same goes for the cut at “a15”, though you still need the one at “a13”.
On the V row there are two cuts but no components.. Am I missing something?
Paulo,
I’m not an authority on these things by any stretch, but those kind of problems are from my experience related to either poor or wrong grounding. Does the problem go away if you toggle the ground lift switch? Could be something there perhaps.
Finished, Thanks for help!!! This is a great circuit, does what is supposed to do…
Still my B input is bleeding hum when i thouch the enclosure. This is normal?
Thank you for this site, it’s amazing 😉
Wouldn’t it be nice if I had just drawn it out? The easiest option would be to download the BYOC documentation which contains the schematic.
Input A first: This is a straight forward mono input jack. Connect the tip to the circuit board as indicated, and the sleeve connects to ground.
Input B: For input B you want a stereo jack with “normally connected/closed” (N.C.) switch lugs, like the Switchcraft 14B or the black plastic Neutrik jacks. Assuming a black Neutrik jack, the connectors furthest away from the opening is the “tip”, then comes the “ring”, and finally the “sleeve” connector is closest to the opening. Now, notice how, when you plug in a cable, one set of lugs are completely disconnected? Those are the N.C. switch lugs. You want to wire the “tip” regular lug to the “ring” switch lug.
What a confusing explanation. Sorry…
Hi all, i’m close to finish this one, but have some questions:
The lower right note says “B input tip -» B input ring SW” . If i face the jack input hole, this would be further left pin to middle right?
Where should the “A” Input ring/sleeve be connected? ground?
And thank you for verifying, Coi2001!
Verified
Thank you Harald for another great layout
If that works, then great! Certainly a lot easier than adding an active buffer stage. I didn’t know you could do that. Thanks for letting us know, Yehudi 🙂
Hey harald, been reading about this and it seems that there’s a way to make it using the output of the transformer.
Someone over the diystompboxes forum said:
“If you need a Phaze switch in your splitter and you want to keep it passive (No Batteries) then a Audio transformer is needed…A Transformer has an input side (Primary) and an output side (Secondary) by reverseing the the Signal wire and ground wires on the Secondary side you reverse the Phaze of the signal…”
Much easier right?
Cheers
You could use the opamp facing the transformers on either IC for this, but it’s not a trivial conversion. You basically have to set it up so that you can switch between the opamp stage being inverting as it is now, and non-inverting. Look at the ROG splitter blend schematic as an example. Since it will require extra components etc. you probably won’t be able to fit it on the current layout, but have to draw a new one. Sorry to be the bringer of bad news.
Do you know how could this be modded to have a phase invert switch on one of the channels? cheers
Ah sorry, I missed a note on the layout..
They’re not needed, but doesn’t hurt either. I’ve left them there for consistency’s sake, to indicate where you’d want to drill a hole for the transformer retainer clips (in the middle of those two cuts). Feel free to leave them out.
Same goes for the cut at “a15”, though you still need the one at “a13”.
On the V row there are two cuts but no components.. Am I missing something?